Troubleshooting Suggestions

Detailed troubleshooting support can be provided by your local dealer or Colonial Saw.

Econom, Automat, Optisaw 1, Optisaw 1 Plus, Optisaw 2, Standard TRK

How do I free up a motor carriage that will not move?
There are two instances that can result in the saw carriage being stuck at the top of the beam.

Situation 1: The most frequent is that a copper bearing scraper has been rolled between the bearing and the ground bearing surface of the beam. This usually begins with the operator able to raise but not lower the carriage. The operator continues to test until the carriage is stuck at the top.

Solution: Get a good look at all the bearings in the housing and determine which the culprit is. A pair of needle nose pliers will work to extract the damaged scraper and return the saw to service. As a last resort consult the parts book and determine if the scraper can be freed by loosening the opposing bearing. Use extreme caution when altering the position of any carriage bearings! Do not add additional pressure when repositioning the bearing. To add additional pressure will likely crack the bearing race and cause extensive damage to the ground bearing surface. Call for assistance if you are unsure of what you are doing.

Situation 2: The second possibility is the Emergency Brake lever has activated as the result of the carriage banging against its upper limit of travel.

Solution: The Emergency brake on this machine is a spring loaded lever intended to rotate into position if there is no tension on the counterweight cables. The weight of the saw carriage forces the lever to bind into the rear ground bearing surface of the left side of the beam. This stops the carriage, protecting both the carriage and the operator. To release the lever the carriage must be pushed up slightly while a second person pulls upwards on the counterweight cables dislodging the lever. The cables can slowly be allowed to return to their natural position and the carriage can be moved down to a normal working height. Extreme care should be exercised with extra attention paid to protecting fingers when handling the counterweight cable. Pinching a finger with a 200lb.counterweight on the other end of the cable can cause physical damage!

After freeing the saw carriage examine the rear of the ground bearing surface where the Emergency brake lever had made contact. You will find disruptions in the surface. Use a flat file to remove the disruptions. Failure to do so will result in repeated locking up of the saw carriage! Call for assistance if you are unsure of what you are doing.

Situation #2 refers to the emergency brake which is position B in the attached parts breakdown.

How do I change a motor belt?
Procedure for Removal and Installation of Motor Drive Belt for Striebigs Models - Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaw I, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II & Standard TRK

1. Disconnect power to saw.

2. Rotate head to the horizontal cutting position.

3. Position and lock carriage to a comfortable working height.

4. Open belt cover (item #8).

5. Remove motor cover (item #66).

6. Loosen Allen screw and remove fan (item #67).

7. Remove the bearing plate and spring washer.

8. Punch the three right side pins (item# 111 ), out of the plunge handle assembly.

9. Remove right side handle (item #110).

10. Remove six Allen screws on the motor cover. Note: Two of the 6 Allen screws are longer. Using a marker, indicate the location of these 2 longer screw holes so they can be returned to the proper location during reassembly.

11. Pull motor field housing up and remove it from the armature (Be careful of the arbor lock tube and the 0-rings (item #9). Note: Motor cable will still be attached to field housing. Place housing on a chair or an equivalent safe substitute until belt is installed.

12. Pull the idler pulley (item #71), back to release tension from the belt. Remove the belt from the pulley.

Belt Installation: Reverse procedure.

Note: Prior to belt cover installation, rotate saw blade arbor clockwise so the belt can self­ center on idler.

How do I adjust the step out of my cut that occurs while backscoring?
Parallel Guide (Healing/Tracking) Adjustment for Striebigs Models - Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaw I, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II & Standard TRK

1. Test for healing by making a climb-scoring (or main-blade scoring) pass and returning back through with a finish cut. Retract the riving knife (splitting wedge) before cutting. The test is the same, but independent, for both vertical and horizontal directions. Examine both sides of the cut for a scoring step, or shoulder, on one side of the cut or the other. The side of the step will correlate to the side that the back of the saw blade is leaning. In other words, if the scoring step is on the left side of the cut (on a vertical cut), then the saw blade is oriented as if at 11 :00 and 5 :00 and needs to be adjusted slightly clockwise.

2. For vertical mode adjustment, (position #65) loosen the two nuts on the nylon screws with the 13mm wrench, while holding the screws in position with a screwdriver.

3. Back off the rear screw (furthest from the frame) at least half a tum to take it out of the equation. The actual adjustment will be made with the lead screw.

4. In the case example described above, the lead screw would be turned clockwise, or inward, in order to adjust the saw head clockwise. The adjustments are generally small, so start with quarter tum adjustments. Lightly tighten the nut to the lead screw only and make another test cut.

5. Verify that you are moving the saw head in the right direction (making the step less visible) and proceed with further adjustment and testing with the lead screw only, until there is no noticeable step on either side of the test cut.

6. Once you have the healing corrected with the lead screw, move the saw head in to the point where the rear screw can contact the flat portion of the guide bar and adjust it in until it just barely touches the guide bar and lightly tighten the nut.

7. Adjust the take-up spring block on the other side of the guide bar with a 5mm Allen wrench so that there is no play, or slop, in the saw head, but also so that there is no significant drag as you plunge the saw head. Make sure the spring block is parallel to the stationary guide bar that it is contacting.

8. The adjustment for the horizontal cut (position #65) is done exactly the same way except that the parallel guide mechanism is a mirror image (the screws are on the left side of the guide bar. Be certain to return the riving knife when finished.

How do I square my saw cuts?
Test cutting and squaring an Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaw I, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II, Optisaw II, Optisaw Automatic & Standard TRK

The intent of these instructions is to accomplish this efficiently and accurately, with minimal amount of material usage. It is important the frame is level and is not sagging or raised in the middle. It is also important that the ends of the frame are equal and the frame is not twisted and the blade is not healing either vertically or horizontally. If required, refer to the frame installation procedure and the healing adjustment procedure. The larger the test piece, the more accurate the test, but the more effort it will take. If you do not have a helper, a full sheet of material will be very difficult to handle, because you will need to flip the sheet (not just roll it around) from top to bottom several times. Have the customer supply you with a good, flat sheet of MDF particleboard (may or may not be melamine coated). It should be a minimum of 3' x 5', but ½" material is fine.

Testing For Square and Adjustment Procedure

(Refer to the attached parts breakdown for adjustment location)

1. With the panel on the rollers, trim the top edge of the piece. Flip it top for bottom. Make another trim cut along the top of the panel. Roll it back and forth along the rollers and check to see if all or most of the rollers turn when you move the sheet. This will be a good preliminary indication of whether the frame is straight. If the rollers turn on either end of the panel but not in the middle, it's a good indication the center of the saw is sagging a little and will need to be adjusted up, If the rollers are hit ting in the middle bit not on the ends, the frame is too high in the middle. Loosen the pinch bolts on the two center feet and make an adjustment with the adjustment bolt on the front of the feet. Another good indicator is to use a 4'X8' sheet and while in the center cut station, make a vertical cut through the middle of the panel. Push both pieces together to ensure there is not a gap at the top or bottom of panels. If you are confident that the frame is level across the rollers, then proceed to the cut squareness testing.

2. With the saw in the center cutting station, trim the right side of the panel. Throw that piece away. Flip the panel the same way you did previously, top for bottom. Cut a thin piece (1/8-1/4" approx.) off of the right side of the panel. Keep track of which end is from the top of the panel. Break the piece in two. (Hint: always break the piece so that the top is a shorter piece than the bottom; this will help you keep track of which end is which). Put the two square ends together, side-by-side, flat on the panel. Run your finger over the surface of the two pieces. Any difference in height is equal to twice the error over the height of the panel you're cutting. Do not make any adjustment yet. Save the test pieces.

3. Roll the panel to the other side of the center cutting station and perform the same test on the left side of the panel. Trim the edge, throw that piece away, flip it, cut a test piece, break it in two, put the ends together, and feel for any difference.

4. If both test pieces have no noticeable difference between top and bottom, you're in good shape and the saw is cutting square.

5. If the two test pieces from the center station are different from one another (either one side shows heavy at the top and the other side shows heavy at the bottom, or one side shows more of an error than the other), then you may have a beam slightly out of square, but do not adjust it (the beam) yet; it's too early to tell. The first goal is to get the error to be the same magnitude. For example, if the test pieces from the panel on the left side of the cut have a difference in thickness (top to bottom of the test strip) of .050", we want to adjust to frame to the point where the test pieces from the panel on the right side are off in the other direction by the same .050". Then at least we know the rollers are straight, and we only need to make an adjustment of the beam to make the saw square.

6. To make an adjustment in the beam for squareness, that adjustment is made solely at the bottom of the beam. You should NEVER touch the top locking pin eccentric, and you should probably never have to adjust the large eccentric bearings that the beam rides on at the top of the frame. To adjust the beam, unlock it from a vertical station, loosen the 13mm hex head bolt on the top of the lower bearing assembly. Tum the Allen head cap screw on the left side of that assembly. Clockwise will move the bottom of the beam to the right; CCW to move it to the left. Tighten the bolt. Test for square again. Remember to always throw away the first trim cut before you flip the sheet. It's the second strip that matters! If you've improved the error, you're moving in the right direction; if not change the direction you turned the adjusting screw. Retest until the saw is perfectly square at the main cutting station.


Why are my cuts burning and chipping?
Parallel Guide (Healing/Tracking) Adjustment for Striebigs Models - Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaw I, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II & Standard TRK

1. Test for healing by making a climb-scoring (or main-blade scoring) pass and returning back through with a finish cut. Retract the riving knife (splitting wedge) before cutting. The test is the same, but independent, for both vertical and horizontal directions. Examine both sides of the cut for a scoring step, or shoulder, on one side of the cut or the other. The side of the step will correlate to the side that the back of the saw blade is leaning. In other words, if the scoring step is on the left side of the cut (on a vertical cut), then the saw blade is oriented as if at 11 :00 and 5 :00 and needs to be adjusted slightly clockwise.

2. For vertical mode adjustment, (position #65) loosen the two nuts on the nylon screws with the 13mm wrench, while holding the screws in position with a screwdriver.

3. Back off the rear screw (furthest from the frame) at least half a tum to take it out of the equation. The actual adjustment will be made with the lead screw.

4. In the case example described above, the lead screw would be turned clockwise, or inward, in order to adjust the saw head clockwise. The adjustments are generally small, so start with quarter tum adjustments. Lightly tighten the nut to the lead screw only and make another test cut.

5. Verify that you are moving the saw head in the right direction (making the step less visible) and proceed with further adjustment and testing with the lead screw only, until there is no noticeable step on either side of the test cut.

6. Once you have the healing corrected with the lead screw, move the saw head in to the point where the rear screw can contact the flat portion of the guide bar and adjust it in until it just barely touches the guide bar and lightly tighten the nut.

7. Adjust the take-up spring block on the other side of the guide bar with a 5mm Allen wrench so that there is no play, or slop, in the saw head, but also so that there is no significant drag as you plunge the saw head. Make sure the spring block is parallel to the stationary guide bar that it is contacting.

8. The adjustment for the horizontal cut (position #65) is done exactly the same way except that the parallel guide mechanism is a mirror image (the screws are on the left side of the guide bar. Be certain to return the riving knife when finished.

Why do I have minimal blade life?
Parallel Guide (Healing/Tracking) Adjustment for Striebigs Models - Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaw I, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II & Standard TRK

1. Test for healing by making a climb-scoring (or main-blade scoring) pass and returning back through with a finish cut. Retract the riving knife (splitting wedge) before cutting. The test is the same, but independent, for both vertical and horizontal directions. Examine both sides of the cut for a scoring step, or shoulder, on one side of the cut or the other. The side of the step will correlate to the side that the back of the saw blade is leaning. In other words, if the scoring step is on the left side of the cut (on a vertical cut), then the saw blade is oriented as if at 11 :00 and 5 :00 and needs to be adjusted slightly clockwise.

2. For vertical mode adjustment, (position #65) loosen the two nuts on the nylon screws with the 13mm wrench, while holding the screws in position with a screwdriver.

3. Back off the rear screw (furthest from the frame) at least half a tum to take it out of the equation. The actual adjustment will be made with the lead screw.

4. In the case example described above, the lead screw would be turned clockwise, or inward, in order to adjust the saw head clockwise. The adjustments are generally small, so start with quarter tum adjustments. Lightly tighten the nut to the lead screw only and make another test cut.

5. Verify that you are moving the saw head in the right direction (making the step less visible) and proceed with further adjustment and testing with the lead screw only, until there is no noticeable step on either side of the test cut.

6. Once you have the healing corrected with the lead screw, move the saw head in to the point where the rear screw can contact the flat portion of the guide bar and adjust it in until it just barely touches the guide bar and lightly tighten the nut.

7. Adjust the take-up spring block on the other side of the guide bar with a 5mm Allen wrench so that there is no play, or slop, in the saw head, but also so that there is no significant drag as you plunge the saw head. Make sure the spring block is parallel to the stationary guide bar that it is contacting.

8. The adjustment for the horizontal cut (position #65) is done exactly the same way except that the parallel guide mechanism is a mirror image (the screws are on the left side of the guide bar. Be certain to return the riving knife when finished.

Why are the saw kerfs in my grid laths getting wider?
What are my saw blade dimensions?
Saw Blade Dimensions

Automat, Econom, Standard, Optisaw 1, Optisaw 1 Plus, Optisaw II, Optisaw III, Automatic, Standard TRK 1 & 2

Nominal diameter: 300mm
Minimum diameter: 290mm
Maximum diameter: 303mm
Diameter (bore): 30mm
Side holes, pitch circle diameter: 60mm
Pin holes: 2(diametrically opposed)
Hole diameter: 9mm
Maximum cut depth: 80mm
Saw blade projection: 10mm

Saw Blade Dimensions

Compact & Compact TRK

Nominal diameter: 250mm
Minimum diameter: 240mm
Maximum diameter: 250mm
Diameter (bore): 30mm
Side holes, pitch circle diameter: 42mm
Pin holes: 2(diametrically opposed)
Hole diameter: 7mm
Maximum cut depth: 60mm
Saw blade projection: 9-13mm
What is the recommended maintenance for my Striebig?
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
OccasionallyDailyWeeklyWeekly
Remove all panel waste from saw.
XXXX
Clean panel support elements (support rollers, central support & frame).
-XXX
Clean entire panel saw especially motor carriage, beam & including inside blade area.
-XXX
Using a cloth, clean steel bearing rails on saw beam and frame and lubricate lightly with an oily cloth.
--XX
Wipe guide column with a cloth.
--XX
Clean saw blade arbor shaft, flange and screw.
--XX
Rotate the saw head in the horizontal position. Lubricate the motor carriage bearing guide columns with one shot of grease at the 2 lubrication points. (Compact, Compact TRK, Evolution/Control, Optisaw Ill & Automatic saws only).
---X
Rotate the saw head in the horizontal position. Lubricate the motor carriage bearing guide columns a few drops of SAE 20/25 oil at the 2 lubrication points. (Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaws L Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw IL Standard TRK saws only).
---X
Check extraction hood and ensure in moves freely along its guides.
-XXX
Inspect and clean bearing covers. Replace defective bearing covers as required.
--XX
Inspect pulley and cables.
---X
Check dust extraction elements and empty dust bag at 1/3 full if applicable.
-XXX
Ensure that the support frame (grid) moves freely and shifts properly.
XXXX
Turn saw head to the horizontal position and lubricate saw arbor with 1 shot of grease.(Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaws L Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw IL Standard TRK saws only).
---X
Inspect cutting tool for material build up on teeth.
XXXX
Why am I cutting into my grid laths?
Replacing Grid Deflecting Device Assembly (C) Models - Econom, Standard, Optisaw 1, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II & Standard TRK machines

With saw head horizontal:

1. Unhook thinner spring #56 from carriage safety brake bolt #21.

2. Back off Allen head set screw just below bolt #20 holding top of hollow rod with 3mm Allen wrench.

With saw head vertical:

1. Remove black connecting rod #53 by snapping ball ends out of joints.

2. Slide the hollow shaft #55 out the bottom of the casting. A screwdriver inside the shaft may help to get it out.

3. Remove the large black plastic deflector #54.

4. Remove the plated track #50 by removing two Phillips screws.

5. Replace the assembly in reverse order; make sure the hole in the hollow rod lines up with the hole in the plastic deflector.

Why do my measured dimensions move when I plunge the head in to cut?
Adjusting the carriage locking (brake) mechanism

1. Remove the deflecting device as above

2. Loosen the setscrew for the backing screw (also on the left side of the carriage-shown just below the "Striebig" nameplate in the drawing)

3. Make adjustment to the backing screw #32 from behind with 6mm Allen wrench so that the screw just touches the back rail, then back off a minute amount, and tighten setscrew.

4. For front locking lever adjustment refer to # 30

5. Loosen center screw and remove.

6. While pulling out handle, rotate either clockwise or counterclockwise until carriage can be locked in place securely and lever can be rotated counterclockwise horizontally.

7. Replace and tighten center screw.

How do I replace the deflector mechanism?
Replacing Grid Deflecting Device Assembly (C) Econom, Standard, Optisaw 1, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II & Standard TRK machines

With saw head horizontal:

1. Unhook thinner spring #56 from carriage safety brake bolt #21.

2. Back off Allen head set screw just below bolt #20 holding top of hollow rod with 3mm Allen wrench.

With saw head vertical:

1. Remove black connecting rod #53 by snapping ball ends out of joints.

2. Slide the hollow shaft #55 out the bottom of the casting. A screwdriver inside the shaft may help to get it out.

3. Remove the large black plastic deflector #54.

4. Remove the plated track #50 by removing two Phillips screws.

5. Replace the assembly in reverse order; make sure the hole in the hollow rod lines up with the hole in the plastic deflector.

Where does the rod with 2 brass ends go on my saw?
Replacing Grid Deflecting Device Assembly (C) Econom, Standard, Optisaw 1, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II & Standard TRK machines

With saw head horizontal:

1. Unhook thinner spring #56 from carriage safety brake bolt #21.

2. Back off Allen head set screw just below bolt #20 holding top of hollow rod with 3mm Allen wrench.

With saw head vertical:

1. Remove black connecting rod #53 by snapping ball ends out of joints.

2. Slide the hollow shaft #55 out the bottom of the casting. A screwdriver inside the shaft may help to get it out.

3. Remove the large black plastic deflector #54.

4. Remove the plated track #50 by removing two Phillips screws.

5. Replace the assembly in reverse order; make sure the hole in the hollow rod lines up with the hole in the plastic deflector.

Optisaw III and Automat

How do I adjust the step out of my cut that occurs while backscoring?
Parallel Guide (Healing/Tracking) Adjustment for Striebigs

Models - Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaw I, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II & Standard TRK

1. Test for healing by making a climb-scoring (or main-blade scoring) pass and returning back through with a finish cut. Retract the riving knife (splitting wedge) before cutting. The test is the same, but independent, for both vertical and horizontal directions. Examine both sides of the cut for a scoring step, or shoulder, on one side of the cut or the other. The side of the step will correlate to the side that the back of the saw blade is leaning. In other words, if the scoring step is on the left side of the cut (on a vertical cut), then the saw blade is oriented as if at 11 :00 and 5 :00 and needs to be adjusted slightly clockwise.

2. For vertical mode adjustment, (position #65) loosen the two nuts on the nylon screws with the 13mm wrench, while holding the screws in position with a screwdriver.

3. Back off the rear screw (furthest from the frame) at least half a tum to take it out of the equation. The actual adjustment will be made with the lead screw.

4. In the case example described above, the lead screw would be turned clockwise, or inward, in order to adjust the saw head clockwise. The adjustments are generally small, so start with quarter tum adjustments. Lightly tighten the nut to the lead screw only and make another test cut.

5. Verify that you are moving the saw head in the right direction (making the step less visible) and proceed with further adjustment and testing with the lead screw only, until there is no noticeable step on either side of the test cut.

6. Once you have the healing corrected with the lead screw, move the saw head in to the point where the rear screw can contact the flat portion of the guide bar and adjust it in until it just barely touches the guide bar and lightly tighten the nut.

7. Adjust the take-up spring block on the other side of the guide bar with a 5mm Allen wrench so that there is no play, or slop, in the saw head, but also so that there is no significant drag as you plunge the saw head. Make sure the spring block is parallel to the stationary guide bar that it is contacting.

8. The adjustment for the horizontal cut (position #65) is done exactly the same way except that the parallel guide mechanism is a mirror image (the screws are on the left side of the guide bar. Be certain to return the riving knife when finished.

How do I square my saw cuts?
Test cutting and squaring an Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaw I, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II, Optisaw II, Optisaw Automatic & Standard TRK

The intent of these instructions is to accomplish this efficiently and accurately, with minimal amount of material usage. It is important the frame is level and is not sagging or raised in the middle. It is also important that the ends of the frame are equal and the frame is not twisted and the blade is not healing either vertically or horizontally. If required, refer to the frame installation procedure and the healing adjustment procedure. The larger the test piece, the more accurate the test, but the more effort it will take. If you do not have a helper, a full sheet of material will be very difficult to handle, because you will need to flip the sheet (not just roll it around) from top to bottom several times. Have the customer supply you with a good, flat sheet of MDF particleboard (may or may not be melamine coated). It should be a minimum of 3' x 5', but ½" material is fine.

Testing For Square and Adjustment Procedure

(Refer to the attached parts breakdown for adjustment location)

1. With the panel on the rollers, trim the top edge of the piece. Flip it top for bottom. Make another trim cut along the top of the panel. Roll it back and forth along the rollers and check to see if all or most of the rollers turn when you move the sheet. This will be a good preliminary indication of whether the frame is straight. If the rollers turn on either end of the panel but not in the middle, it's a good indication the center of the saw is sagging a little and will need to be adjusted up, If the rollers are hit ting in the middle bit not on the ends, the frame is too high in the middle. Loosen the pinch bolts on the two center feet and make an adjustment with the adjustment bolt on the front of the feet. Another good indicator is to use a 4'X8' sheet and while in the center cut station, make a vertical cut through the middle of the panel. Push both pieces together to ensure there is not a gap at the top or bottom of panels. If you are confident that the frame is level across the rollers, then proceed to the cut squareness testing.

2. With the saw in the center cutting station, trim the right side of the panel. Throw that piece away. Flip the panel the same way you did previously, top for bottom. Cut a thin piece (1/8-1/4" approx.) off of the right side of the panel. Keep track of which end is from the top of the panel. Break the piece in two. (Hint: always break the piece so that the top is a shorter piece than the bottom; this will help you keep track of which end is which). Put the two square ends together, side-by-side, flat on the panel. Run your finger over the surface of the two pieces. Any difference in height is equal to twice the error over the height of the panel you're cutting. Do not make any adjustment yet. Save the test pieces.

3. Roll the panel to the other side of the center cutting station and perform the same test on the left side of the panel. Trim the edge, throw that piece away, flip it, cut a test piece, break it in two, put the ends together, and feel for any difference.

4. If both test pieces have no noticeable difference between top and bottom, you're in good shape and the saw is cutting square.

5. If the two test pieces from the center station are different from one another (either one side shows heavy at the top and the other side shows heavy at the bottom, or one side shows more of an error than the other), then you may have a beam slightly out of square, but do not adjust it (the beam) yet; it's too early to tell. The first goal is to get the error to be the same magnitude. For example, if the test pieces from the panel on the left side of the cut have a difference in thickness (top to bottom of the test strip) of .050", we want to adjust to frame to the point where the test pieces from the panel on the right side are off in the other direction by the same .050". Then at least we know the rollers are straight, and we only need to make an adjustment of the beam to make the saw square.

6. To make an adjustment in the beam for squareness, that adjustment is made solely at the bottom of the beam. You should NEVER touch the top locking pin eccentric, and you should probably never have to adjust the large eccentric bearings that the beam rides on at the top of the frame. To adjust the beam, unlock it from a vertical station, loosen the 13mm hex head bolt on the top of the lower bearing assembly. Tum the Allen head cap screw on the left side of that assembly. Clockwise will move the bottom of the beam to the right; CCW to move it to the left. Tighten the bolt. Test for square again. Remember to always throw away the first trim cut before you flip the sheet. It's the second strip that matters! If you've improved the error, you're moving in the right direction; if not change the direction you turned the adjusting screw. Retest until the saw is perfectly square at the main cutting station.


Why are my cuts burning and chipping?
Parallel Guide (Healing/Tracking) Adjustment for Striebigs Models - Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaw I, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II & Standard TRK

1. Test for healing by making a climb-scoring (or main-blade scoring) pass and returning back through with a finish cut. Retract the riving knife (splitting wedge) before cutting. The test is the same, but independent, for both vertical and horizontal directions. Examine both sides of the cut for a scoring step, or shoulder, on one side of the cut or the other. The side of the step will correlate to the side that the back of the saw blade is leaning. In other words, if the scoring step is on the left side of the cut (on a vertical cut), then the saw blade is oriented as if at 11 :00 and 5 :00 and needs to be adjusted slightly clockwise.

2. For vertical mode adjustment, (position #65) loosen the two nuts on the nylon screws with the 13mm wrench, while holding the screws in position with a screwdriver.

3. Back off the rear screw (furthest from the frame) at least half a tum to take it out of the equation. The actual adjustment will be made with the lead screw.

4. In the case example described above, the lead screw would be turned clockwise, or inward, in order to adjust the saw head clockwise. The adjustments are generally small, so start with quarter tum adjustments. Lightly tighten the nut to the lead screw only and make another test cut.

5. Verify that you are moving the saw head in the right direction (making the step less visible) and proceed with further adjustment and testing with the lead screw only, until there is no noticeable step on either side of the test cut.

6. Once you have the healing corrected with the lead screw, move the saw head in to the point where the rear screw can contact the flat portion of the guide bar and adjust it in until it just barely touches the guide bar and lightly tighten the nut.

7. Adjust the take-up spring block on the other side of the guide bar with a 5mm Allen wrench so that there is no play, or slop, in the saw head, but also so that there is no significant drag as you plunge the saw head. Make sure the spring block is parallel to the stationary guide bar that it is contacting.

8. The adjustment for the horizontal cut (position #65) is done exactly the same way except that the parallel guide mechanism is a mirror image (the screws are on the left side of the guide bar. Be certain to return the riving knife when finished.

Why do I have minimal blade life?
Parallel Guide (Healing/Tracking) Adjustment for Striebigs Models - Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaw I, Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw II & Standard TRK

1. Test for healing by making a climb-scoring (or main-blade scoring) pass and returning back through with a finish cut. Retract the riving knife (splitting wedge) before cutting. The test is the same, but independent, for both vertical and horizontal directions. Examine both sides of the cut for a scoring step, or shoulder, on one side of the cut or the other. The side of the step will correlate to the side that the back of the saw blade is leaning. In other words, if the scoring step is on the left side of the cut (on a vertical cut), then the saw blade is oriented as if at 11 :00 and 5 :00 and needs to be adjusted slightly clockwise.

2. For vertical mode adjustment, (position #65) loosen the two nuts on the nylon screws with the 13mm wrench, while holding the screws in position with a screwdriver.

3. Back off the rear screw (furthest from the frame) at least half a tum to take it out of the equation. The actual adjustment will be made with the lead screw.

4. In the case example described above, the lead screw would be turned clockwise, or inward, in order to adjust the saw head clockwise. The adjustments are generally small, so start with quarter tum adjustments. Lightly tighten the nut to the lead screw only and make another test cut.

5. Verify that you are moving the saw head in the right direction (making the step less visible) and proceed with further adjustment and testing with the lead screw only, until there is no noticeable step on either side of the test cut.

6. Once you have the healing corrected with the lead screw, move the saw head in to the point where the rear screw can contact the flat portion of the guide bar and adjust it in until it just barely touches the guide bar and lightly tighten the nut.

7. Adjust the take-up spring block on the other side of the guide bar with a 5mm Allen wrench so that there is no play, or slop, in the saw head, but also so that there is no significant drag as you plunge the saw head. Make sure the spring block is parallel to the stationary guide bar that it is contacting.

8. The adjustment for the horizontal cut (position #65) is done exactly the same way except that the parallel guide mechanism is a mirror image (the screws are on the left side of the guide bar. Be certain to return the riving knife when finished.

Why are the saw kerfs in my grid laths getting wider?
What are my saw blade dimensions?
Saw Blade Dimensions

Automat, Econom, Standard, Optisaw 1, Optisaw 1 Plus, Optisaw II, Optisaw III, Automatic, Standard TRK 1 & 2

Nominal diameter: 300mm
Minimum diameter: 290mm
Maximum diameter: 303mm
Diameter (bore): 30mm
Side holes, pitch circle diameter: 60mm
Pin holes: 2(diametrically opposed)
Hole diameter: 9mm
Maximum cut depth: 80mm
Saw blade projection: 10mm

Saw Blade Dimensions

Compact & Compact TRK

Nominal diameter: 250mm
Minimum diameter: 240mm
Maximum diameter: 250mm
Diameter (bore): 30mm
Side holes, pitch circle diameter: 42mm
Pin holes: 2(diametrically opposed)
Hole diameter: 7mm
Maximum cut depth: 60mm
Saw blade projection: 9-13mm
What is the recommended maintenance for my Striebig?
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
OccasionallyDailyWeeklyWeekly
Remove all panel waste from saw.
XXXX
Clean panel support elements (support rollers, central support & frame).
-XXX
Clean entire panel saw especially motor carriage, beam & including inside blade area.
-XXX
Using a cloth, clean steel bearing rails on saw beam and frame and lubricate lightly with an oily cloth.
--XX
Wipe guide column with a cloth.
--XX
Clean saw blade arbor shaft, flange and screw.
--XX
Rotate the saw head in the horizontal position. Lubricate the motor carriage bearing guide columns with one shot of grease at the 2 lubrication points. (Compact, Compact TRK, Evolution/Control, Optisaw Ill & Automatic saws only).
---X
Rotate the saw head in the horizontal position. Lubricate the motor carriage bearing guide columns a few drops of SAE 20/25 oil at the 2 lubrication points. (Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaws L Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw IL Standard TRK saws only).
---X
Check extraction hood and ensure in moves freely along its guides.
-XXX
Inspect and clean bearing covers. Replace defective bearing covers as required.
--XX
Inspect pulley and cables.
---X
Check dust extraction elements and empty dust bag at 1/3 full if applicable.
-XXX
Ensure that the support frame (grid) moves freely and shifts properly.
XXXX
Turn saw head to the horizontal position and lubricate saw arbor with 1 shot of grease.(Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaws L Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw IL Standard TRK saws only).
---X
Inspect cutting tool for material build up on teeth.
XXXX

Compact (Plus) and Compact TRK

How do I adjust the step out of my cut that occurs while backscoring?
Tracking (Healing) Adjustment on Striebig Compact

1. For the vertical healing adjustment (position# E), loosen nut on nylon take-upscrew (position #92) and back screw off a couple of turns. This is accessed from inside the housing with the riving knife pulled all the way back.

2. Make parallel guide adjustment by loosening the lock nuts and making equal adjustment turns on the two screws in the black plastic guide block (position# 91). Make sure the block is parallel and runs flat against the plated guide bar then tighten lock nuts and test.

3. When the guide block is set, turn the nylon take-up screw until it just touches the parallel guide bar; lightly tighten lock nut while holding screw in position. If it creates a drag while plunging the saw head, back it off very slightly and lightly retighten the lock nut.

4. Adjust the dampener bolt (position # 90), if necessary, so that it creates a slight bit of drag as you move the saw head in and out. It should be enough so that the saw head won't "fall in" on its own, but it should not be out so much that it makes it difficult to plunge the saw head.

5. The horizontal adjustment procedure is the same as the vertical except the location is position # F.

How do I adjust the scoring blade?
Operation
Geometry of a scoring cut

The scoring and separating cut made on a plastic laminated panel is as follows if a two-part scoring saw is used for the purpose of scoring.



Scoring saw blade

A variety of scoring saw blades are available from the trade. The choice of the right scoring saw blade is not only dependent on cutting tool mounting but also on the material to be cut and its application. STRIEBIG recommends two-part tungsten carbide scoring saw blades with which all the adjustment options of the entire scoring saw set can be fully exploited.

The scoring saw must have the following dimensions:

Nominal diameter - 80mm

Hole diameter - 20mm

Max. width - 3.6mm

Stated speed max. - 15,000 min or higher

In order to set the scoring saw blade, it is necessary to know the width of the scoring saw blade without any spacers (measure it with a vernier caliper). In addition, the tooth width of the main saw blade must be known as well as the amount by which the scoring saw edge must stand back from the panel edge.

This information is dependent on the cutting tool or the material although the scoring width is generally approx. 0.2 mm wider than the separation cut of the main saw. The width of the sco­ring saw blade is set by using the appropriate spacers in accordance with this information.

For example:

Main saw blade width: 3.2mm

Desired scoring width: 3.4mm

Scoring saw blade width excl. spacer: 2.8mm

Thickness of the spacers: 0.6mm

1 x0.3 mm, 1x0.2 mm and 1x0.1 mm spacers must be used from the existing set of spacers.

True running can only be achieved when the saw blade shaft, the clamping flange and the saw blade centre are perfectly clean.

The selection of spacers provided contains more spacers than are required to set the maximum permissible scoring width. The additional spacers are spare spacers in the event of one or more being damaged as a result of creasing, etc.

Operating elements

The scoring saw unit has the following operating elements:

1. Operating rod. This is used to move the scoring saw unit into its working position or its resting position. The scoring saw unit is moved from its working position to the resting position by pulling and slightly raising the ball grip on the operating rod. When moving from the resting position to the working position, guide the operating rod by holding the ball grip. Do not allow the scoring saw unit to be forced back into its working position by the pressure of the spring!

2. Centrlng the scoring saw blade. The screw used to set the scoring saw blade centring is located in the cover of the scoring saw unit and allows the blade to be aligned with the main saw blade. To do this, the saw unit must be swung into the horizontal position and the scoring saw unit must be in its working position. Dependent on the direction of rotation, the scoring saw blade shaft is displaced axially by approx. 0.6 mm per turn. The direction of rotation and the adjustment travel per turn of the key are given on stickers on the extraction hood.

3. Setting the scoring depth. This adjuster is fitted in the extraction hood. The adjustment screw can be accessed through a hole in the extraction hood baseplate. It can be operated independently of the cutting position of the saw unit. Dependent on the direction of rotation, the scoring depth is changed by approx. 0.8 mm per turn.

The direction of rotation and the adjustment travel per turn of the key are given on stickers on the extraction hood.

Why do my measured dimensions move when I plunge the head in to cut?
Compact Motor Carriage Locking Adjustment

1. Lock saw beam at far left cutting station and let saw head float around shoulder height.

2. Remove the entire deflecting assembly (C) by first popping out the connecting rod (#89) with the saw in the vertical position. Then remove the two assembly mounting screws by first removing the lower one while the head is still vertical. It is a flat-headed 3mm Allen screw painted like the carriage. Then remove the top screw by turning the head to the horizontal position and unscrewing the black4mm cap screw visible through a hole in the side of the carriage. The device will come out the bottom all in one piece.

3. The adjustable backing screw (#73) is now accessible. With a 6mm Allen wrench turn the screw to such a position that the carriage is locked firmly when the kip handle, with moderate force is put in the true vertical position. The carriage should move freely when the handle is horizontal. There should also be no movement of the bottom of the carriage, in or out, when locking it.

4. Replace the deflecting assembly in reverse order.

What is the recommended maintenance for my Striebig?
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
OccasionallyDailyWeeklyWeekly
Remove all panel waste from saw.
XXXX
Clean panel support elements (support rollers, central support & frame).
-XXX
Clean entire panel saw especially motor carriage, beam & including inside blade area.
-XXX
Using a cloth, clean steel bearing rails on saw beam and frame and lubricate lightly with an oily cloth.
--XX
Wipe guide column with a cloth.
--XX
Clean saw blade arbor shaft, flange and screw.
--XX
Rotate the saw head in the horizontal position. Lubricate the motor carriage bearing guide columns with one shot of grease at the 2 lubrication points. (Compact, Compact TRK, Evolution/Control, Optisaw Ill & Automatic saws only).
---X
Rotate the saw head in the horizontal position. Lubricate the motor carriage bearing guide columns a few drops of SAE 20/25 oil at the 2 lubrication points. (Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaws L Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw IL Standard TRK saws only).
---X
Check extraction hood and ensure in moves freely along its guides.
-XXX
Inspect and clean bearing covers. Replace defective bearing covers as required.
--XX
Inspect pulley and cables.
---X
Check dust extraction elements and empty dust bag at 1/3 full if applicable.
-XXX
Ensure that the support frame (grid) moves freely and shifts properly.
XXXX
Turn saw head to the horizontal position and lubricate saw arbor with 1 shot of grease.(Econom, Standard, Automat, Optisaws L Optisaw I Plus, Optisaw IL Standard TRK saws only).
---X
Inspect cutting tool for material build up on teeth.
XXXX

Where can I get my Hollow Face blade sharpened?